The PNG Letters.jpg, 14kB

Photograph Gallery


The following is a list of photographs in alphabetical order. Click on the photograph to load the larger version. Actually, this is one of my regrets: that I didn't take my good camera to Papua New Guinea. We were advised not to, and only took our little cheap ones, which produce cheap poor quality photographs. It was such a missed oportunity! So, you have my apologies now for the quality of some of the photos.


A     B     C     D     E     F     G     H     I     J     K     L     M     N     O     P-R     S     T     U     V     W-X     Y-Z

All the Village Kids
After breakfast we cleaned our little house and packed the bus. We sat and talked, everyone from the village was milling about, waiting to say goodbye. We took some group photos and unable to cope with waiting any longer decided to leave. It took quite some time to walk the short distance to the bus, as we had to shake everyone's hand and many offered us a gift from their garden (kulau, drai, laulau, guava, pineapples and flowers): it was really very emotional. Top

Andrew Mangi in full bilas
Andrew went up into the hills and asked the old fellas what the old bilas was, before white men had come. This is what they told him, and this is how Andrew dressed for the Independence Day celebrations. Top

Andy in Full Bilas
Andy in full bilas. The locals are quite keen to get us Westerners into bilas, and Andy was keen to say goodbye in the best way posible. Some of Keren's classmates offered to bilas Keren for Independence Day. Top

Anna's Warakalup
All the pikaninis are sitting in the splash pool half way up the waterfall. They would stop the second fall by lying across the pool's outlet, building up the supply of water, and then suddenly stand up creating a huge flow of water over fall and stunning anyone washing at the bottom. Joanna is the lass in the yellow shirt climbing down. Top

Arnold Ding
Arnold bilas'd for Independance Day (I think) and photographed outside the staff laundry, which was next to our house. Top

Arsenia with Jol and Lidia
Arsenia standing with Jol and Lidia outside of Skol and Otto's House in Kawe Village, Madang. Top

At the Highlander
Here the Radcliffe's and our kids are relaxing in the pool at the Highlander (The international motel in Mt. Hagen). Left to right: Ben, Josiah, Nathanael, Pricilla, Keren, Jesse and Tim. Top

Ball Games
After the swim, and we had cooled ourselves back down to operational temperatures, we brought out the pump that we brought for the football, and instantly there appeared all the flat balls in the village! We dutifully pumped them all up (I think it was about the only thing that they let us do!), and after that there ensued running games of football, volley ball and anything else with a ball (now pumped). Top

Bernadette Ding in full bilas
Bernadette Ding in full bilas. Interestingly enough, Bernadette was not unlike any other child from any other country who was dressed up in their best clothes by their parents: emi kamup les! Behind Bernadette is our nearly finished chicken coop sitting on the central parking area. Top

Blue Lagoon
Is this your vision of a tropical paradise? It was amazing! The water, the fish, the coral, the sand… the heat. You should be able to make us out lolling about on the gumi. And that in Nathanael in the green T-shirt, and Jesse swimming with a, yes: you guessed it, a log. Top

Broom Making
Jol was volunteered to go up the coconut, so up he went – bush knife in hand. When he had scampered up the 10-15 metres, he simply sat down in the crown and started hacking off kulau with his knife. As they hit the ground, they rolled off down the hill, which meant that Fidelis and Adolf had to give chase. Down came some dry coconuts and some fronds and then finally Jol. The leaves were stripped back to their centre veins and bundled together and bound with cut strips of gumi. Top

Cooking at the River in Madang
Adolf tending the fire at the river. Top

Dawn in the Kawe Village
Tuesday dawned a lovely bright day: blue skies and hot. Sandi and I creaked our way out of our bedroom, Otto having obviously long gone. Top

Eastern Highlands Cultural Centre
Eastern Highlands cultural centre was a common stopping off place for us on our journeys to the coast, although the number of times that we found that their toilets were not working should have meant that we stopped expecting to find them usable. This sign is typical of the quality of English that the Nationals used. They sold a variety of art and crafts, but mainly pottery. Top

Elke's Farewell
Another extravegant expatriot experience; this time to farewell Elke who was going home to Germany a few months earlier than her husband Norbert. This picture was taken just after we had finished our farewell song. It started of with "Elke! You're a wild thing." to the tune of "Wild Thing". The group includes: Elke, Jandel, Julius, Andy, Iris, Perry, Sandi, Jesse, Keren, Nathanael, Peggy, Karl, Samuel, Peggy's Mum Peggy's Dad Bill, Chris, Regina, Eli, Martin, Gabriella, Martin & Gabriella's son and Sandi Blake. Norbert was behind the camera. Top

Fatima Health Centre
The Fatima Health Centre was run by an amazing woman named Lilian, who seemed to be some sort of relation to John Ding. She was a woman of drive and passion. One of her great passions being to make the Fatima Health Clinic into a major health centre. The first step up the ladder was to Sub-Health Centre. I had thought that it was Lilian who got the terminology mixed up, but no, that was the offical title from the PNG Health Department. Top

Fatima Health Centre Sign
The Fatima Health Centre was run by an amazing woman named Lilian, who seemed to be some sort of relation to John Ding. She was a woman of drive and passion. One of her great passions being to make the Fatima Health Clinic into a major health centre. The first step up the ladder was to Sub-Health Centre. I had thought that it was Lilian who got the terminology mixed up, but no, that was the offical title from the PNG Health Department. Top

Fishing for a BBQed Sausage
The Clark children (who were our children's companions where we lived in Sydney before going to Papua New Guinea), always were creative in the activities that they decided upon with out children. It was no different when they visited us in PNG. Here we are fishing for a BBQed Sausage over an open fire in the Staff Haus Win. Top

Going Home
My traditional change of address cartoon. I wasn't going to do one, but when Sandi looked at me with those big eyes and said that I always did a change of address cartoon and gave me that look that melts a husband's heart… I couldn't resist. So, here it is: the five characters are the five in my family, with a not too fictional representation of their reactions. Top

Good Shepherd College Chapel
This photo was taken just before we were due to come home, Keren sat in a pew to give it some scale. The banners were designded by the students and sewn by my predecessor's wife. The Chapel was really the hub for the whole College, not only physically and liturgically, but also sacramentally. This probably seems obvious, but it was the Chapel that held us all together and gave us the grace to keep going. Top

Good Shepherd College Mass
This photo was taken during the Graduation Mass for our third year students. Bishop Steve from Mendi is presiding, Fr. Kees is second to the right. My appologies for the poor quality of the photographs, I rue the day I decided to leave the camera at home. The special Masses were always a great event at the College, graduation was probably one of the highlights. It became the place of life and zing and fullfilled it's dominance of the College landscape. Top

GSC Courtyard
I took this photo just before we were due to leave to come back to Australia. I had done a sketch of this courtyard in the first weeks at GSC, so I wanted a photographic comparison. From left to right: The garage on the left, with tool shed and gardener's room; the staff house at the far end; our house next to the staff house and Staff House B on the right. Sandi can be seen standing in the doorway of our house. Actually, our house used to be the convent when the College had a contigent of nuns. Top

GSC from our house
This is the the view from our front porch, although it wasn't always so dramatic! The gardens in the foreground are part of the student vegetable garden. The building from left to right are: Staff Administration, Students' Mess, Dormitory 5, Chapel, work shed, Rector's office/rooms, Dormitory 1. This is one of my favourite photos of the College. It seemed to sum up much of the feeling amoungst the staff. Top

GSC from the air
This photo was taken by Jesse and Keren in their helicopter ride. Banz is to the right (in the photo) and the location of the Outstations and the site of Jesse's exciting driving lesson is to the left. See The Location Diagram for a description of all the buildings. Top

GSC from the road
This is the first view of Good Shepherd College as you drive into Fatima off the Banz Highway. This was taken when the road was still unsealed. The village of Fatima is further down the road. Top

GSC from the road
As you walk past Good Shepherd College down toward Fatima, this is what you see of the College. The gardens are in the foreground (at the stage planted with kau kau), Staff House 4 is on the left (which contained the Bursar's office), the chaple roof can be seen in the centre and the big roof on the right is the hall. Top

GSC Location Diagram
This is An Aerial View of the College marked up to show all the different locations of the buildings. The buildings of the College are: Student Dormitories, Student Hall, Student Mess, Chapel, Class Rooms, Library, Staff Offices, Rector and Spiritual Director's Residence, Staff Residence, Our Residence, Staff House, Garage. The Basketball court can be seen between the two rows of Student Dormitories and behind the Student Hall; the uncoloured structure between the chapel and the hall is the builders' workshop. I've marked Mt. Sui in green. Mt. Sui was the ridge that the original white men used when they walked into the area in the 1930's (even back then it was recorded as a treeless ridge), and was our first bush walk with Br. Maurice. The boys did it a number of more times, sometimes running it! Top

Hagen Show: Engan Group
A group from the province of Enga practicing for their entrance into the arena. Top

Hagen Show: Face Painting
Nathanael with his Rabaul image painted onto his cheek with Dulux house paint! Needless to say, the image stayed for many days, and in the end had to be scrubbed off with turps. We had jokingly asked what type of paint they were using, suggesting with a smile that it may have been Dulux, and were quite taken aback when they said, "Yes!" Top

Hagen Show: Highlands Girl
This is the typical bilas for the Highlands women around Hagen. That is the skin of a cuscus covering her front. Top

Hagen Show: Highland March Past
One of the highland march pasts. I think this was the Hagen group which won the contest that year. They were not as graceful as some of the coastal women, or as dramatic as the Engan men, but porocial tendancies won out on the day. See Pictorial: The Hagen Show for all the other photos from the Hagen Show. Top

Hagen Show: Highlands Men's Group
During the march past the groups would parade around with a banner bearer to let everyone know where they were from. Here the parade has ground to halt, and this group is taking a well earned rest. See Pictorial: The Hagen Show for all the other photos from the Hagen Show. Top

Hagen Show: The Parade Ground
This is a general shot of the parade ground with some of the groups milling about after the parade. That is actually clouds in the sky, not tear gas! Top

Hagen Show: Trying to Leave
Yes, that is Keren in the foreground; and yes he is the only waitskin in the photo. See A Pictorial Summary of the Hagen Show for all the other photos from the Hagen Show. Top

Hagen Show: Two Girls
Two highland girls taken during the parade. See A Pictorial Summary of the Hagen Show for all the other photos from the Hagen Show. Top

Hagen Town: Best Buy
This is another of the main streets of Mt. Hagen. The famous Best Buy is on the corner, Best Buy was the only supermarket type store in Mt. Hagen – and it was not too bad considering. Sure the floors were dirty and all the clothes had to be washed before you wore them (but that was the same for all the stores in Hagen), but they imported some amazing groceries – and when the ship came in, you always bought up big… because it may not be in for another six months! Behind the greenery and the fence on the left is the telikom building [scene of my weekly fighting with Telikom to fix our phone system, see Now we're really talking: Telikom PNG! ], which was the tallest building in Hagen I think, and had penthouse type flats at the top! Brian Bell is at the other end of the street on the same side as Best Buy. Top

Hagen Town: Main Street
This is one of the main streets of Hagen. Lets see: The post office [see Post PNG ] are down the lane to the right, the telikom offices [see Now we're really talking: Telikom PNG! ] over the right shoulder, the PNGBC is at the end of the street on the right (the yellow building is the Bank of South Pacific opposite the PNGBC) and various small stores are on the right hand side of the photo. The truck in the forground was doubed by our family as bokis igat wil (because of its shape). Top

Hagen Town: PNGBC
This is the main street of Hagen. The PNGBC has an automatic teller located on the corner, it is often out of money or order or both. Security guards are common all through town and when associated with money usually have dogs as well. The Papua New Guineans are terrified of dogs and will often cross the road so as not to get too close: note the amount of clear space around this guard - that is very unusual in Hagen (otherwise the pick-pockets would never be able to ply their trade). Top

How to eat sugar cane
Well, this is how it's done (after much time observing the local people)! Note the sugar cane tied up in the first picture? That is how they get it to grow longer. And the official rubbish pile? If there is a pile, then it will attract all sorts of rubbish. Some of my observations are described in Our Weekly Trip to Hagen and Morning at Mount Hagen Market. Top

Independence Day at the College
Independence Day is a day of much celebration, everyone gets in on the act. Here Bernadette has been fully bilas'd and Nathanael and Joanna are borrowing some of her feathers to join the gaiety. Top

Independence Day at the School
The whole family spent time celebrating with the rest of the PNG nationals, mainly doing the vaipa. Here Keren is still wearing the paint from his attempted bilas. Top

Independence Day bikman
Here Ben (The High School chairman), Andrew Mangi and Fr Peter are snapped by Br. Jef before the celebrations begin. That building in the background is the Fatima Church. Top

Iris' Farewell
October and Novermber are frantic for Missionaries: it's the time for saying goodbye to your new close friends. See Missionaries on Hot Bricks. For Iris we did a progressive party where we had some food and an additional letter and verse from an acrostic poem based on Iris' name. It was great fun, warm and very touching. From Left to Right Back: Keren, Sandi, Iris, Jesse, Perry, Norbert (Elke had already left), Karl, Peggy and Samuel, Br. Jef and Br. John Front: Andy, Andrew, Gerard and Nathanael. Top

Jack Ande and Family
Jack was the student cook at the College. Betty was his second wife (concurrently) according to his accusers; but when they had their first baby, Jack wanted it to grow up big and strong, just like Mr. Perry, so he named him Smol Peri. Smol Peri is my one and only namesake, for which I feel very privaleged. From Left to Right: Perry, Jack, Jesse, Sandi, Betty and Smol Peri, Keren and Nathanael. Top

Japanese Light Bomber Top
On the way home we stop off at a relic of the Second World War. It was a simple hand made sign on the road pointing into the jungle. turning into the over grown track, it was impossible to know where it would take us and what would be at the end. It turned out to be one Japanese light bomber. Apparently destroyed on the ground during an allied air raid. I would have liked to stay longer, but the mosquitoes were ferocious! They attacked as soon as we got out of the car, and even smothered in repellent, they seemed to be able to find a small hole in the defences. So, slapping and running (trying not to think of malaria) we jump back in the car and head off home.

Jesse Receiving His Award
This is Jesse receiving one of his awards from his final year at Fr Peter Secondary School. I took this photograph at the rear of the outdoor stage at the school; all the dignitories are immediately in front of the camera and the rest of the school students are on the other side of Jesse. Read about the end of his school year in Big Fish in Little Ponds. Top

Jesse up a Buai Palm
The discussion turns to the task of providing some buai to Skol's brother on his departure (the traditional farewell), and Jesse volunteers to scamper up the palm and collect the fruit. The local boys tie some grass around their ankles to hold their feet together and give them the grip needed, but Jesse used his arm and sholder strength to pull himself up. Whichever way, it was successful, and all the locals were most impressed! Top

John Nambis and Family
John brough his family down to say goodbye to us shortly before we were to leave. I had always got on quite well with John [except for The New Staff Units ], and he certainly made good use of his employment at the College. Maria his wife almost cried from the moment they walked in to the moment they left, and they stayed a long time! They all wore their Sunday best, and we served them numerous cups of tea during the afternoon. Top

Joycelyn and Alex
At the fire is Jocelyn, Adolph’s 17 year old sister. She has a young baby (about 5 months old) called Alex. Alex looks like a happy child, always laughing, everyone comes to hold him a while or to play with him: it is almost like he is community property. Although you can see that Skol is very proud of Alex. Top

Kasim Pass
This is the main – maybe the only, I'm not sure – road down to the coast from the highlands. After travelling may hours through a series of valleys, you come up a wee rise and then are presented with this awesome view. For all the world it feels like you are flying! On one trip back from Lae with Br. Maurice we measured the elevation difference with his altimeter: 1,000 metres! Read about it in The Triumphal Entry. Top

Keren Receiving His Award
This is Keren receiving one of his awards from his year 10 at Fr Peter Secondary School; Keren is in the middle of shaking hands with Fr. Peter. I took this photograph at the rear of the outdoor stage at the school; the fellow immediately in front of the camera is Archbishop Meier. Read about the end of his school year in Big Fish in Little Ponds. Top

Kina Notes
These are three of the paper kina notes. Click to turn them over. There was also a K20 and the K50 was introduced while we were there. Top

Kudjip Haus Sik
Kudjip Haus Sik seen from the air. The Radcliffe's House is to the right of the round about. This photo was taken by Jesse and Keren during their ride in the pay helicopter, see Miksmasta bilong Jisas. Top

Lae Rainforest Habitat
During our rushed trip to Lae, Jeremy took us to the Rainforest Habitat which was located in the Lae Unitech. We are pictured here in the viewing area for the cassuaries. This also was the only place where we saw birds of paradise that were not dead, stuffed and put into the head dress of one of the native dancers. Top

Leaving pigeon Island
After a hot day in the burning sun (note Alan under the towel!) Even Rovin got burnt! That's pigeon Island in the background: not huge, or fancy, but still nice. We never did find out why it was called pigeon Island, it may have been as simple as that's where a collony of birds roosted. From left to right: Jesse, Michelle, Cherie, Nathanael, Native Guide, Rovin, Lindsay, Native Guide, Perry, Sandi, Alan, Keren and Native Guide. Top

Maps: Our Excursions and Other Landmarks
Our Major Journeys: Lae and Return in Four Days [Read about it in Lae and Return in Four Days ] Our Holiday in Madang [Read about it in Our Madang Holiday ] Easter in Rabaul [Read about it in Easter in Rabaul ] Major Landmarks : Banz, Mt. Hagen, Chimbu, Mt. Wilhelm, Goroka, Kainantu, Kasim Pass. Top

Mathias
Mathias was a local, though not too old, long long man. This photo of Mathias was taken on a Sunday with Mathias in his best clothes. Every Sunday Mathias would dress up in his best clothes, go to Mass (sometimes making a disturbance in church), and always giving an impromptu sermon after the Mass outside the Church! He was a very short man, which is common of the people who matured before white men arrived with their tin pis and tinned meat; but very bery strong. Top

Mausrot bilong Fatima
This is the mausrot into Fatima from the Banz Highway. The Warakar Market [mentioned in The Aftermath ] is about 200m further on down the right. The land on the left is actually Good Shepherd College land, though the time to do anything with it has probably past, as now if they started, it would only flush out all the 'real owners' who would want compensation. Top

Mt. Taruva
This photo was taken from the MV Rita as we rounded the Tarui point to enter the harbour at Rabaul. This is the volcano that made such a mess of Rabaul, note the ash all around the mountain. Actually, the volcano was almost at the end of the airport's main runway: the airport is now buried under ash and probably never to be used again! Read about it in Rabaul and Mautin i pair. Top

Mt. Hagen Market
Mt. Hagen Market is considered to be one of the better markets in the highlands. It certainly is big and colourful, with lots of variety; and offers great opportunity to local pick-pockets. Top

Mt. Wilhelm - At the lake
Jesse standing next to the lower lake. The hut is a few metres behind the camera. The rock face we climb up is off the left side of the photo and is not shown, the track to the top is on the other side of the spur. Top

Mt. Wilhelm - Resting Halfway Up
Here the group is resting after the massive stair climb. Left to right: Perry, Andy, Keren, Guide, Eli, Bill, Gerard, Nathanael, Chris, Guide, Jesse and Andrew. Karl is taking the photo, so is not shown. Top

Mt. Wilhelm - The Hanging Valley
This photo was taken just below the plateau where the huts are located and is looking down onto the hanging valley. The valley floor was quite boggy and the creek draining it (on the left hand side) gurggled along quite noisily. Top

Mt. Wilhelm - The Summit
This photo was taken by Karl approaching the summit of Mt. Wilhelm. The trig marker just right of centre marks the actual summit. Top

Mt. Wilhelm - The Top
Here we are resting near the top. One of the local guides is in the sleeping bag, apparently he fell asleep on his feet. The rest of the party has walked on to the summit; Karl took this photo just before leaving with the rest. Top

Mt. Wilhelm - The View to the Coast
This photo was taken by Karl from the summit of Mt. Wilhelm. To the left of the ridge is the northern coast and Madang, and on the right side of the ridge is the Waghi Valley. Top

Nambis bilong Rempi
Adolph smiles and suggests, “Yu laik go waswas?” After such a long dusty trip it was almost impossible to refuse! The beach is a leisurely 30 second walk from Otto’s house. We had been warned about the beaches, but still felt a little disappointed at the sight of the broken coral beach, although in some parts the broken bits had been reduced to a soft, white coral sand: absolutely beautiful to walk on! The water of the lagoon is an amazing turquoise, with darker blue-green patches, and quite shallow. Hillary came down for a swim too, he was introduced to us as Adolph’s helper and our co-guide. We were soon enveloped by all the young pikanini of the village, Adolph and Hillary constantly telling them to keep their distance. Top

Nathan Doing a Bob Marley Impersonation
We had not long been there when Fidelis rushed down, "Nathan igat skinhot tru, na longlong tok!" We got up and ran back to find them rinsing him with the water from the well. Otto was pulling his fingers and wrists, Wolphi was trying to get some coherent speech from him. Top

Off to Church
Each Sunday for the first year we made the trek, usually with Fr. Kees to the outstation churches. Kees, Sandi and I would be squeezed into the front cabin and the boys would sit on the back tray. The driving style and the roads combined to make the experience less than enjoyable for the boys, who would always have gone to the College Mass in preference. Despite the ride, I think the outstation Masses were worth it. Top

Otto
Adolph introduced us to his father, Otto, also a little man. He has a roundish face, easy smile and the kind eyes of a teacher. He is quite bald on top of his head, and what is left of his hair is grey. He often wears a once yellow baseball cap. Otto is a thin man. He explained that he is in retirement because of his health. He has some sort of liver problem which restricts his diet. He doesn’t eat greasy food, which includes coconut. He only uses buai occasionally, and his while teeth testify to this fact. Top

Our Chooks
On our arrival back at Good Shepherd College we find the chickens are bigger and (thankfully) still there! A lovely welcome from Fr. Kees, John and Anna and Maria. There is heaps of mail, mostly christmas cards, which is a real treat. Top

Our House
This was our little house for the two years we were in Papua New Guinea: a medium sized three bedroomed house with bright green internal walls! See The College Location Map for the positioning of our house. The first image is how it was when we first arrived. Fr. Joseph had thoughtfully chopped the roses that were growing across the front of the house off at ground level with a bush knife, because they kept interfering with the washing on the line. The first thing we did was to transplant them to the little island bed in the middle of the paths. We eventually planted the front with hippiastrums and sugar fruit, but it was never very private, which is why we built the deck at the back. Top

Our trip to Chimbu cartoon
I did this cartoon after a trip to visit a Ghanian Priest in Chimbu, which is the neighbouring Province. He was an amazing fellow, in Chimbu where there are many idle hands and consequently lots of law and order problems, he set up 700 fish farms to improve the protien deficient diets and taught the people how to produce tabioca Ghanian style (which is very labour intensive). The road is a little overstated, but the PMV is not! Top

Our Village House
Adolph helped us to unpack our gear into his brother Stephen’s house. Stephen works in Lae and only visits the village infrequently. The house is typical of the Rempi Style: marota roof (saksak leaflets individually folded over bamboo), sliced palm trunk walls and floor with no windows but a large verandah, all set up about 1.2 metres on timber posts set into the ground. The house has two rooms, and one door. Adolph's father, Otto sleeps in the first room which Sandi and I must walk through to get to our bedroom. Adolph's first plan was to put the whole family in there, but the boys wanted to sleep on the verandah with Adolph. Even though the roof, walls and floor of this house breathes, the bedrooms were still a little stuffy with no windows. Top

Papa bilong bataflai wantaim olgeta bataflai istap olsem piksa
The Papa was quite proud of the fact that he had received UNDP funding to help set up the farm, although little evidence of the funding could be seen now. Tracks were badly rutted, name tags for the trees were unreadable. His guest book showed the names of the UNDP personnel who had come to check the work. Back up in the village he showed us his mounted specimens. Top

Picnic on the Wahgi
A picnic on the banks of the mighty Wahgi River (Wara Wahgi in Tok Pisin). We often lunched here with Andy & Iris and Karl & Peggy. To get to this spot we had to walk through Fatima Coffee and down onto the flood plain (also planted with coffee), see The Walk to the Wahgi. The bush in the left foreground is a coffee bush. Top

Pictorial: Building Developments
The building programme was a major part of my tasks at Good Shepherd College. Here are some of our achievements: pass the mouse over the image to view the changes, click the image to view the enlarged version. Top

Pictorial: Hagen Show
The Hagen show is full of colour and movement. It has become a tourist activity – People will fly in for the weekend to experience to flavour of Papua New Guinea, staying at the almost plush Highlander Motel and probably going to a staged tradition feast. It's hard to complain: it brings in some export dollars to the local economy; but it did seem a little futile all the same. Anyway, they take many thousands of dollars worth of photographs and videos during the two days. This is the selection of what we managed with our cheap camera (click on the images to go to the larger versions). Top

Pictorial: Some of my Sketches
I never did quite as many sketches as I really wanted to, but here is a selection of what I did do. Click on the sketch to see an enlarged view. Top

Pictorial: Some Wonderful Signs from Papua New Guinea
Papua New Guinean's use of the English language is wonderfully creative. Here is a selection of some great signs that we saw. Top

PK in the Basket
PK was always in for a lark, and coped well with a family that just loved to put him in all sorts of funny situations. Come to think of it, if the family didn't put him in funny situations, PK would get into them of his own accord! Top

PMV with Suspension Problems
This photo was taken out the front of the College bus, another one of our "Amazing things you see on PNG roads" series. There are two basic types of PMVs: the 15 seater van and the open truck. As far as transport goes, the vans are enclosed and tight; the trucks are open and tight. The Japanese train stuffers don't have anything on PMV boskrew! This truck's suspension has definitely seen better days! Top

PNG Taim
Here Keren, Me, Jesse, Nathanael, Sandi and Fr. Kees suffer under PNG Taim. Actually, we were waiting for the grand openning of the Fatima Sub-health Centre which ran exceptionally late. Top

Samuel has Come
After a 2am ride to Kundiawa (Chimbu Province) hospital with Peggy labour pains piecing the Papua New Guinean night, the happy morning brought the bright and bouncing Samuel to change all our lives! We had offered to accompany Karl and Peggy to hospital not realising that Samuel would chose the most unlikely and unsafe time to drive on the PNG roads! But we finally were roused from our sleep by Karl's knocking, and we did finally open the door, and then full of excitement we all drove to hospital. Read about the party in A Celebration for Samuel. Top

Sandi cutting Nathanael’s hair with a small audience
Sandi has decided to cut Nathanael's hair, because he has picked up nits from somewhere. Sandi doesn't have her clippers with her, and there is not electricity anyway, so she attacked his hair with scissors. Actually, about 3 seconds after Nathanael has been sat down there is an audience in gripped attendance. Top

Sketch: Good Shepherd College Courtyard
I did this sketch the second Sunday we were in Papua New Guinea. We'd just come back from the outstation churches, had lunch and had the afternoon to fill in. It was a bit of a hit with some of the staff. Top

Sketch: Haus Bilong Otto na Skol
I did this sketch during our holiday in Madang. This is Otto and Skol's house, but only Skol and Nathan slept in the house. Read the whole story in Our Madang Holiday. Top

Sketch: Sios long Kondapina
One day I said to the family that I wanted to go out and sketch one of the outstation churches and did they want to come and sketch too. In theory it was fine, but when we drove up and unpacked our skeching materials and looked up, there were over 50 observers encircling us and watching every move we made! This sketch is of the Church at Kondapina, one of the permanent churches. Top

Sketch: The Banz Highway
This sketch was done from memory of a stretch of road just before the turnoff to the College. Top

Skolastica
Sandi jumped out of the bus and greeted Skolastica in a warm embrace: we had met her at Adolph's graduation from Good Shepherd College last November. Skol is a shortish woman, about 1.4 metres high. Her skin is very dark, like others from Bogia. Her teeth are badly stained black and red from the betel nut they traditionally chew with lime and daka. She, like most other PNG women, is wearing a meri blaus and laplap is what she wears. Top

Skol with her Brother's family
About 3:30pm we took Skol and Nathan to the airport to pick up her brother. We continued on to Jais Aben to try and track Andy and Iris down; albeit unsuccessfully. Headed home to find the village bulging at the seams! I can't believe how many people are coming back to the village, and with every new arrival we feel more and more uncomfortable about the space and resources we are using. We had dinner in our own little house tonight as the rest of the family were storying with Skol's brother, who she has not seen for 40 years! Top

Skol with Jesse and Nathanael in her grass skirts
Traditionally, this area of the coast made grass skirts, called porapora, and made from saksak. Skol uses a tie dye technique to dye them in red, black and yellows (all bough from the stoa these days). Skol said that she had that skill and had made many for the various cultural days. Suddenly, her eyes lit up and she instructed Fidelis to go and get them. They were wrapped up in paper and plastic to preserve them in that tropical climate. Both Jesse and Nathanael tried them on, to the visible delight of Skol who looks at them with real motherly smiles. Top

Smoke Belchers on the Road
This is a very common sight in Papua New Guinea. Everyone drives a diesel engined car or truck, just about everyone drives a diesel engined car or truck with a dirty air filter! BTW There is a car hiding behind that smoke on the other side of the road! Top

Staff House B
Staff House B was originally two attached units of three bedrooms each. The left-hand side was altered so that each bedroom had a separate sitting area and bathroom. See The College Location Map for the positioning of Staff House B. Top

Staff House C
Staff House C was one of the major building projects, and included four seperate and unique units with ensuite, bedroom and sitting room. The first unit on the right eventually became my office, and had a wonderful view out to Mt. Sui through the tall picture window. See The College Location Map for the positioning of Staff House C. Top

Sr. Jean's House
After taking Francis to the airport for his journey home, we decided to go to Mass in at Hagen. During the Mass the electricity went off (which is not unheard of!), so everything became accoustic and the Priest used his best projection. When we heard the generator come on but no evidence of the power returning, we thought it a little strange… but it was only on leaving the church that we saw what the cause of the problem was: a fire in Sr. Jean's house! Br. Lambert was in charge moving, removing… The generator was not a generator but the water pump on the fire truck. After the fire was out we helped remove all the soiled possessions, which was a very sobering task. Top

Suicide Rocks
Suicide Rocks is the swimming hole up behind the Nazarene hospital. We often went there with the Radcliffe's, here in this photo (left to right): Nathanael, Cilla, Jesse, Perry, Keren, Joe, Dr. Jim and Tim. Top

Sunrise over Rempi Lagoon
I woke early, and feeling a strange pang in my stomach, decided to wander down to the beach in the predawn darkness and watch the sunrise over the lagoon. I can feel the impending departure weighing on me, and I guess it's like catching every minute on offer. The peace of the new day in such a delightful surround was special. Top

Swimming at the Banz Club
The Clarke children and the boys swimming at the Banz Club. From left to right: Nathanael, Michelle, Alistair, Jesse, Cherie, Keren and Lindsay. Top

Swimming in the River at Rempi
About 11am we packed up some food and fire materials and headed off to the river. Jesse must have a bit of a temperature, because after a bout 30 minutes in the luke warm water he felt too chilled and got our and lay on the bank while the rest of us frolicked. I had actually asked some local boys about the crocodiles (quite please I could have a conversation in Pidgin): They said very big crocodiles lived at the wara maus, and the men of the village sometimes killed a crocodile in the tais wara and ate it. "The abus iswit tru!" Otto was very insistent not to ride the gumi down into the sol wara; for very good reason it seems! Top

The Australian Family Mowbray
Here we are: The Australian Family Mowbray! These photos are in chronological order, just click on the photo to advance through the years. The first one was taken by Sr. Mary the first Sunday on our way out to the outstations and the last one was taken in Port Moresby Botanical Gardens on our way home – and the rest were taken inbetween! Top

The Baby Boombers' Big Band
Here we all are, lined up ready to sing the not so classic "Samuel has Come". From left to right: Nathanael, Margaret, Gerard, Perry, Sandi, Keren is hidden behind Sandi, Iris, Jesse and Andy. Top

The Back Deck
The building of the back deck, from which these three photos have been taken, was a great family exercise (mainly amongst the male members), and was thoroughly used throughout our time there. See The College Location Map for the positioning of our house. Top

The Basketball Team
The Kudjip Basketball Team after an away competition at Numanoi. Back row (left to right): Dr Jim, Jesse, Keren, Gabe, Jack, Vern; Front Row (left to right): Joel, Steven, Ben, Windsel, Rick. Top

The Builders
This photo was taken after the building was dedicated and blessed. Back row (left to right): Fr. Matthew, Fr. Kees, Johannes, Perry, Fr. Joseph, Paul; Front row (left to right): Bruno, Tom, Andrew, John, Sr. Mary and Billy. Top

The Bus on the Way Back from the River
The drive down to the river is through plantations of interplanted coconut and cocoa. It is a delightful landscape: the graceful coconuts swaying with the breeze, and underneath the cocoa trees with colourful leaves and fruit. Top

The Coastwatchers' Lighthouse
We later went down to the coastwatchers lighthouse, but were disappointed because they don't turn the light fully on anymore because it interferes with the planes landing at the airport. Top

The Coke Ples
Coka Cola lend or rent these to local people who sell soft drink out of these huge eskis. This one is located at 40 Mile Market on the way out of Lae, see Lae and Return in Four Days. Top

The Departure
Leaving the village was an experience I will never forget. Everyone was milling about as we were waiting to leave and taking photos, saying goodbyes. When we jumped into the bus all the village kids ran toward the road. We didn't really know what was happening, but as we turned onto the road there they were: lining the sides. And as we drove past they shouted and called in their sweet little pidgin voices, and showered us with flowers. It was extremely moving and produced quite a flow of aiwara. Top

The Erupting Volcano
On the drive down to the old airport, the volcano that destroyed it and most of Rabaul gave a huge display. I was a little apprehensive about our destination because the old airport was located right underneith the volcano! But thankfully the wind was in a favourable quarter, and blew the ash out to sea. Top

The Group in Rabaul
This photo was taken across from the market where we'd just bought some fruit for the trip home. Alan bought some soft drinks to cool things down, and we sat on the grass reading until we could board. I think we'd watched one too many videos ( Videos, Games, Games and more Videos) so I started reading Ice Station Zebra which really captivated everyone! The only problem that in the end I was really struggling to finish it in the time left. So I was reading during every event possible: Note the book in my hands is nearly finished. Top

The Haus Kakaruk
The complete chook house, though yet untested, here Jesse making sure the chooks are happy. We were to be awoken a few nights later with dogs attacking the poor chooks! The next day we built The New Chook House, and didn't have any further problems. Top

The Last Sunrise of our Madang Holiday
I was so impressed with yesterday's sunrise, I woke everyone up while it was still dark so that we could wander down to see the sunrise this morning. Off we trotted in the dark, with torches and cameras to the beach. From pitch black (there are no artificial lights here) to the dazzling, brilliant day was an awesome experience. Top

The MV Rita
Ah such luxury! This photo was actually taken on the way back home, read about it in The MV Rita and Home James, and Don't Spare the Gas… Top

The New Chook House
When we finished the new haus kakaruk istap inup long pasim olgeta dok (note the pig wire, the chook wire and the barbed wire?), we just couldn't help ourselves: we just had to celebrate like we knew the chooks would! Well, all except Jesse that is, who couldn't bring himself to be so wonderfully silly. Top

The New Library
The New College Library was the last project that I started. Fr. Kees waited until all the other building projects had been completed until he embarked on what was probably the love of his heart. I developed the plans in conjunction primarily with Fr. Kees, but also suggested that other staff members may also like to add suggestions (which some of them did). Unfortunately, we had to leave before even the start of the building, but thankfully the ever thoughtful Sr. Mary sent down the photo record of it's building. See The College Location Map for the positioning of the initial library. Top

The Potter Family
The Potters pictured up at Suicide Rocks. David and Sylvia worked within the nurse training fascilities at Kudjip Hospital. The Radcliffes were also great friends from Kudjip. Left to right: Jeff, Sylvia, David, Wes and Joel (who also played basketball with Jesse and Keren see The Basketball Team ). Top

The Radcliffe Family
The Radcliffes pictured outside their house at Kudjip. Jim was a surgeon at Kudjip Hospital. The Potters were also great friends from Kudjip. Left to right: Tim, Becka, Pricilla, Ben (who also played basketball with Jesse and Keren see The Basketball Team ), Kathy, Lydia, Jim and Josiah. See also: At the Highlander. Top

The Staff Haus Win
It's funny how things develop. My predecesor at the College spent an inordinate amount of energy to purchase a B.B.Q, which because of the way things run in PNG (eg PNG taim), he only managed to use once for his farewell bung. This BBQ, however, developed under Francis' guidance, into a regular, very cramped al fresco meal each Saturday at the back of the staff house on the verandah [see Staff meal on the back verandah. I decided to build a haus win, and the tradition grew. We used it for all sorts of activities [see Fishing for a BBQed Sausage ], and it was a wonderfully peaceful space (except that you could see the local kids coming down from out of the trees to steal the produce from the garden). Top

The Swimming Hole Close to the College
This is the place where we went to swim. Because it was the deepest part of the Wara Ka for a long stretch, it was also where we pumped water up to the College. The Wara Ka was infected with typhoid, and because of that Br. Tony called the frozen ices made from river water Typhoid Sticks. Top

The Vaipa
After the cultural show came the party: village style. The vaipa is a dance that everyone joins in with, a little like a barn dance. You interlock arms with the person next to you, on both sides, and jump up and down… for hours! Here Jesse is head and shoulders above his school friends. Top

The Vaipa
In this photo both Jesse and Keren are starting to show the strain of jumping up and down for hours for the second day running (though Gerard still looks full of energy). Top

The Village Mother
“Monin, Skol.’ We reply like well trained school children. A young child is shooed out of one of the chairs so that we can sit down. Top

The Village Behind Kudjip
On the way up from the Nazarene Hospital at Kudjip to Suicide Rocks you pass through this village. This very typical of housing construction in the highlands: Kunai thatch roof, woven pitpit blind walls. Top

The Walk to the Wahgi
Sandi and I walking back up the hill from the Wahgi amoungst the flowering May Grass (probably after a picnic!). The May Grass, though pretty, was considered to be a weed in the area: a recent arrival and outcompeting the indiginous kunai (which is of more benifit). Top

Toea Coins
These are four of the toea coins. Click the coin to turn it over. There was also a K1 coin (that had a hole in the middle) and a 10t and 5t, which we didn't manage to bring back with us. Top

Under the Mango Tree
Sitting under the mango tree in the hot afternoon, we got talking about their natural traditions and sing sings. We asked them if they enjoyed their traditions; Fidelis said that he did not; and didn't want to learn the village language or the village dances. Otto said that the local village doesn't sing sing anymore. But there would be many more sing sings if the tourist boats came back into the harbour regularly again – on the wharf. They also sing sing in the cultural shows, but this isn't village traditions or history. Wolphi added that the Madang Show was much better than the Hagen Show, primarily because it went on into the night with a big Rock and Roll Show. Otto says that the older people don't teach the younger anymore… Fidelis said that he just wasn't interested. Top

Valerian BBQing Bananas
Fr. Valarian is looking after the BBQ on which Cooking Bananas and KauKau are being cooked (the bananas are those sausage shaped objects). Top

Village Cricket: French Style
Started a game of French cricket with the boys. Instantly all the local kids joined in, and it is huge fun, though meltingly hot in the sun. We all rinse at the well to cool off. Top

A Village from the Air
Nathanael took this photograph when he and I went up in the pay helicopter. I think it is located just on the other side of Hagen. It is obviously a fairly substantial village because of all the metal roofs and the large shed – probably used for coffee. The large expanse of blue that can be seen through the trees are tarpaulens used for drying the coffee beans on. When it rains they simply roll the tarpaulans up with the coffee on the inside. Note the regular arrangement of the gardens. Apparently when white people first walked into the highlands a little over 70 years ago they were amazed with the highly developed agricultural practices. Top

Waiting for Kaikai
Without warning Skol brings out five plates of food and puts them on a stool in front of us. I wonder if anyone else is eating? Adolph instructs us, “Oli kaikai bilong yupela. Yupela mus kaikai.’ “Kaikai bilong yupela i stap we?’ I ask. “Mipela kaikai pinis.’ Dinner is boiled root vegetables and greens. Otto, Skol and the rest sit a little way off. I feel a little awkward at being so separate. Top

Waiting for Wages
This photo was taken by Jesse and Keren in their ride in the pay helicopter [see Miksmasa bilong Jisas]. This is a fairly typical scene these days in the highlands: village buildings a mixture of capa and traditional materials (usually the living quarters were capa and the haus kuk was traditional kunai and pit pit). This village is in the middle of a tea plantation (notice the clipped tea hedges), which is why the wages are being dropped here: the company houses it's workers within the tea plantation. These villages are a source of major trouble in the highlands because all it's occupants are from other areas, which causes friction amongst the traditional land holders. Top

Waswas at the well
The village well is about 25 metres from Skol’s house. The well is about 1½ metres in diameter and about 3 metres deep. Water is pulled up with a metal bucket attached to a bamboo pole. The water is used for waswas and wasim klos only. Adolph showed us a partially completed haus waswas they were building to replace the old one which looked the worse for wear. Simple construction: branches forced into the sandy ground, lashed to bracing poles and coconut palm leaves forced into the ground as walls. No one I saw used them. Top

Wolphi and Family
Awoke this morning to the news that Wolphi and family came in the middle of the night. Wolphi is the eldest brother of Adolph, and has been a teacher in Mount Hagen for 17 years. He has just quit his job and come back home with his family to live in the village. They were the ones making all the noise in the middle of the night before. Top

Yonki Hydro-electric Dam
This photo was taken by Sandi out the window of the College bus as we travelled toward Yonki, on the way to the coast. Top

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